What your hourly rate actually needs to be
Most people price off what the bloke down the road charges. Here is the arithmetic that tells you what you need, which is usually a different number.
25 August 2026 · 8 min read · Gnarly by Nature Pty Ltd
The first hire is the hardest decision a small trade business makes, and it usually gets made on the wrong number. Somebody works out they can afford a wage, hires, and finds out over the following six months that a wage was not what they were buying.
Whatever you agree to pay, the actual cost to the business is meaningfully higher. The pieces, roughly in order of size:
Add those up honestly and the loaded cost of an employee usually lands somewhere well north of the wage. The exact multiplier depends on your state, your trade and your award, so work out yours rather than borrowing a rule of thumb.
Here is the one that catches people, and it is the reason the first hire so often feels like it made things worse before it made them better.
You get slower.
For the first stretch, you are checking their work, answering questions, driving out to look at something, and redoing the odd thing. That time comes off your billable hours, which were the most valuable hours in the business. A first hire who takes 20 per cent of your week for three months has a real cost that never appears on a payslip.
This is temporary and it is worth it. But if you budget as though it does not exist, the first quarter looks like a disaster and people panic and let someone go two months before it would have come good.
Two numbers.
Take the fully loaded annual cost, then divide by the billable hours they will actually deliver. Not the hours they are on site: the hours you can invoice. A new employee is not billable while they are being shown something, and an apprentice is billable for less of their week than a qualified tradie.
Your charge out rate for that person's work. If you charge $110 an hour for a second set of hands and they cost you $70 an hour billable, the gap is $40 an hour. That gap has to cover the slowdown in your own week, and then everything after that is why you hired.
The question is not "can I afford the wage". It is "how many billable hours a week do they need to hit before this is worth it", and then "is that realistic in my first six months".
The businesses that get this right tend to do it in the same order.
Different decisions, not cheaper and dearer versions of one.
An apprentice costs less per hour and much more of your time, and does not pay off properly for a couple of years. You are investing, and there are incentives and obligations attached that are worth understanding properly before you commit. Hire one when you can afford to teach.
A qualified tradie costs more and can be billable in a fortnight. Hire one when you need capacity now and cannot afford the teaching time.
The mistake is hiring an apprentice because it is cheaper when what you needed was capacity. You get neither.
Award rates, superannuation and employment obligations change and vary by state and trade. Check the current position with Fair Work and your accountant before you commit to anything here.
Seven days, no card. Delete him if he is useless.
He works the same whatever you do, but the words change. Pick your trade and see what it looks like.
Most people price off what the bloke down the road charges. Here is the arithmetic that tells you what you need, which is usually a different number.
Revenue tells you how much came in. It does not tell you which work was worth doing. Here is how to find the jobs quietly costing you money.
Chasing money is a symptom. The fix is almost always earlier in the job than the invoice — in what you wrote down, and when you sent it.